No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The working car is from 2018.
The bad one from 2013.

The vorking one has one less battery pack in it.

The new ones computer doesent check something that the broken ones does... But what?

I will take down the battery pack and check the inside for any visible problems. What should I check?
 
So. Yesterday, I took out som parts of both of the cars traction batteries, swapped them, still no ready light. They pack is ok, it was a bit smelly, like burned electric parts, but we found nothing suspicious.

So we moved on. After some research, on a German forum, I found some interesting information... There is somewhere near the condenser a component that measures the current, wich with time weakens, and puts the car in fail mode. I will try to find out where and what. This would be an explication that the car works well whit the new cars computer but doesn't whit the original. They maybe lowered some values.

So my next move is to write the new computers data on the old one, lets see. In the meantime I will try to find the mysterious failong part.
 
hubermatos said:
on a German forum, I found some interesting information... There is somewhere near the condenser a component that measures the current, wich with time weakens, and puts the car in fail mode.
I'm quite interested in iMiEV current sensors at the moment. Can you post a link to that comment? Or at least name the forum?

I see two current sensors on two of the motor 3-phase outputs, but so far no current sensors on the DC side.
 
hubermatos said:
...They pack is ok, it was a bit smelly, like burned electric parts, but we found nothing suspicious.

You never answered my previous question about the swapping of the EV-ECU, so what we got here is a failure to communicate. Maybe gooogle translate is needed here, what is your preferred language?

With the old EVECU the main contactors were not being energized, but with an EVECU swap from the working car, then the car went to READY? [That would mean the contactors were getting energized properly].

You then ordered a used ECU from Poland which did not energize the contactors, but did you test it in the working car and get READY? The unit from Poland may be defective but you can't know for sure without a test to verify it is known to be good. There will be a VIN error when trying to do a swap that will likely prevent a car from going to READY; the EVECU is not swappable without reprogramming of the VIN.

Concerning the pack inspection:
Did you inspect the pre-charge resistor near the main contactors? There has been at least one reported case of failure of that resistor, and it would surely smell like burned electric parts if it overheated.

What about the cooling fan inside the pack, not sure if it has brushes or not, but motor brushes can wear and cause an overheating condition and smelly burnt wire too.

Another item might be the coils of the contactors. They should be rated to handle continuous operation but you never know.

The contacts of the contactors provide an ultra-low resistance path when ON. It would be difficult to measure that low without special equipment, but if the surface was damaged it could affect the voltage to the big condenser in the MCU.

If something overheated to cause a smell, then look for discolored wiring also.
 
coulomb said:
hubermatos said:
on a German forum, I found some interesting information... There is somewhere near the condenser a component that measures the current, wich with time weakens, and puts the car in fail mode.
I'm quite interested in iMiEV current sensors at the moment. Can you post a link to that comment? Or at least name the forum?

I see two current sensors on two of the motor 3-phase outputs, but so far no current sensors on the DC side.

Hello coulomb,

https://www.goingelectric.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=222&t=39731&hilit=P1A15

This is the link to the german forum, elektrozitrone has the solution.
I can speak German, so I tried to ask him for the solution, but no answer yet.
 
kiev said:
hubermatos said:
...They pack is ok, it was a bit smelly, like burned electric parts, but we found nothing suspicious.

You never answered my previous question about the swapping of the EV-ECU, so what we got here is a failure to communicate. Maybe gooogle translate is needed here, what is your preferred language?

I used my phone to answer, and to ask, while I was working on the car. I am now in front of the computer, so I have time to write my answers. Please do not insult me with google translate, I speak German English and Romanian, my mother tongue is Hungarian.

With the old EVECU the main contactors were not being energized, but with an EVECU swap from the working car, then the car went to READY? [That would mean the contactors were getting energized properly].
Yes it is true.

You then ordered a used ECU from Poland which did not energize the contactors, but did you test it in the working car and get READY? The unit from Poland may be defective but you can't know for sure without a test to verify it is known to be good. There will be a VIN error when trying to do a swap that will likely prevent a car from going to READY; the EVECU is not swappable without reprogramming of the VIN.

The working car is from 2018, it has one pack less in the traction battery compartment, so neider of the old ones work with the new car, it cannot read the battery charging state, don`t ask me why. I think these EVECU's dont really brake, I haven't really seen this kind of a problem at any of the forums I visited. The vin error got corrected by me with lexia, no problem there.

Concerning the pack inspection:
Did you inspect the pre-charge resistor near the main contactors? There has been at least one reported case of failure of that resistor, and it would surely smell like burned electric parts if it overheated.
Yes, I swapped it from the working car, no luck.

What about the cooling fan inside the pack, not sure if it has brushes or not, but motor brushes can wear and cause an overheating condition and smelly burnt wire too.
Did not check.

Another item might be the coils of the contactors. They should be rated to handle continuous operation but you never know.

The contacts of the contactors provide an ultra-low resistance path when ON. It would be difficult to measure that low without special equipment, but if the surface was damaged it could affect the voltage to the big condenser in the MCU.

I looked very carefully, sniffed around like a houd, but nothing.

If something overheated to cause a smell, then look for discolored wiring also.
 
But the good news is:

I had an idea...
What if?
I took the rom of the working car and wrote into the old ones.
Car jumps into ready mode, no errors with lexia, it charges.

Today will take the car on a ride, to see how it works on a long term.

I will post the rom, if someone has this problem, it can be solved until we figure out where the current sensor is hiding.

I know, this solution is not good. But it solves temporarily my problem.

Thank you all for your help, let the search continue.
 
Sorry i did not mean to offend about translation--i had a hard time to understand, but it makes sense that you were on the phone and the reply was somewhat limited.

i didn't realize the working car was 2018, it uses a different OBC and MCU than the ones that we have traced the schematics. And likely different control units too, such as EVECU, BMS, etc. The CAN PIDS are different such that the Canion App can't read the cell voltages, so there are many differences between 2012 and 2018 cars.

But my point is that it would seem that the issue is not inside the pack since it went to READY with a different EVECU. Also it would seem that the MCU HV voltage measurement circuit is okay.

Good luck to you and hope you can find and repair the issue.
 
kiev said:
Sorry i did not mean to offend about translation--i had a hard time to understand, but it makes sense that you were on the phone and the reply was somewhat limited.

I am very sorry That I gave you a hard time understanding, the issue was not language related, It is related to my knowledge about this car.


i didn't realize the working car was 2018, it uses a different OBC and MCU than the ones that we have traced the schematics. And likely different control units too, such as EVECU, BMS, etc. The CAN PIDS are different such that the Canion App can't read the cell voltages, so there are many differences between 2012 and 2018 cars.

I noticed, they made lots of improvements. The old car showed 140 km range yesterday, I managed to go 50 with it and still has 70 km range...
With its original computer it showed 110 km...


But my point is that it would seem that the issue is not inside the pack since it went to READY with a different EVECU. Also it would seem that the MCU HV voltage measurement circuit is okay.

The problem came back, so it will be the MCU HV voltage measurement circuit. I think. I hope.
https://forums.drom.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=7056177&d=1559710414
So there is this board, I read now carefully, what should I chack and change?



Good luck to you and hope you can find and repair the issue.
Thank you so much for your help!
 
So the P1A15 error is related to some failure in this circuit discussed here, http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225&start=10#p39208

and here
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225&start=20#p39357

or on the hybrid isolation amplifier board (ISA board) here, http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225&start=40#p40858

But i wouldn't recommend to add resistors such as mentioned--better to find the fault and replace the parts.

The Nihon website is not showing some of the previous links, but here is the circuit of the ISA board
yfnWLDo.gif



good set of pictures here, http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225&start=50#p40953
 
Hi everyone, I've just bought a 2012 Peugeot Ion as a non runner. Must start off by saying the forum has been very informative and I certainly understand the car a lot better now.

I've downloaded Hobdrive and used my elm327 obd adapter to read the fault codes. This has come up with P1A15. From reading previous posts I understand this relates to the car detecting a difference between the battery pack voltage and the capacitor voltage (the big black meiden one?). I'll attach the Hobdrive screenshots ASAP (these show that the capacitor is only at 2v).

If I reset the DTCs using Hobdrive, I do (occasionally) hear the contactors moving into position. I've only managed to get this to happen a couple of times though, as the DTC reappears very quickly. The rest of the time it's completely silent.

Have read from the previous posts that this issued may be due to some failed components on the PCB on the inverter. I'd really appreciate the group's thoughts on likely culprits- appreciate that this has probably been covered in previous posts, but I'm a bit of an EV novice (my Leaf hasn't needed anything done so far!)

Thanks Jason
 
i tried to summarize the likely causes in the previous post,
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225&p=41619#p41619

Follow the 3 links to read about each one; there is a schematic in the first one, good pictures of the hybrid board linked at the bottom of that post also.

The circuit board is in the bottom plenum of the MCU aka motor inverter.

Do you know the previous troubleshooting history, has the car been worked upon or molested by somebody, or is it intact. e.g. Has the pack or any control units been opened up and fiddled with?
 
Thanks Kiev, I will have a good look at those. I had read through the entire thread, but I think I must've been suffering from a touch of information overload by the time i got to the end...oops!

The service hatch cover in the boot/trunk had been removed and the dc-dc converter? (one with the 20 amp fuse) lid had been removed. The passenger seat and service hatch above the isolator switch had been removed.

I suspect that it hasn't been looked at by anyone specialist. There was reference made to problems with the 'condenser' when I bought it. Think this diagnosis could easily have been arrived at by any ICE garage with non specialist equipment, purely by extracting the DTCs and typing them into Google though!

Should add that I have fitted a brand new 12v battery.
 
Okay it figures that someone tried to figure it out, so no telling what they disconnected or replaced.

The box on the right is the MCU aka motor drive or inverter, it has the 20A fuse that is inline with the HV to and from the OBC (top plenum) and the DCDC Converter for charging the 12V aux battery in the lower plenum.

The condenser is in the MCU and it is not being charged up, either to the right voltage or not quickly enough, to make the EV-ECU under the rear seat happy.
 
There might be a problem with the CMUs as well, since the min and max cell voltages are reporting 0.39 V. But the total pack voltage seems fine (average of 4.063 VPC). I don't know if this is related to your main issue.
 
Having read through Kiev's suggested reading, I've set about trying to find someone local to test the components on the main and hybrid boards that have been found to be troublesome by others in the past. Not having too much joy with this so far though. Could anyone recommend a place in the UK (preferably Scotland) that would do this type of testing and replacement work?
 
Simon (username: DBMandrake) is the smartest guy in Scotland for solving problems and he knows how to open a pack and change cells because he did it. There is an EV forum at SpeakEV with lots of UK and EU folks, that may be able to help you find somebody local.
 
Back
Top