kiev wrote:No problem, i couldn't find it with a search either; then realized it was posted elsewhere.
There is a MCU fuse investigation thread with analysis, theories and simulations to figure out why it is failing, and purchasing info from Mouser, (it is the 10.3 diameter not the 7.2mm)
coulomb wrote:kiev wrote:No problem, i couldn't find it with a search either; then realized it was posted elsewhere.
Ah, thanks! I'd forgotten that topic.There is a MCU fuse investigation thread with analysis, theories and simulations to figure out why it is failing, and purchasing info from Mouser, (it is the 10.3 diameter not the 7.2mm)
Ah! To be clear, you're saying that the original Mitsubishi fuse is actually 10.3 mm diameter, not the 7.2 mm diameter that the earlier posted PDF refers to, in the index? So the index should refer to this drawing instead? If so, that clears up a lot of confusion (on my part, at least).
Edit: so the fust I found in this post is possibly also a good, if not exact, fit.
skylogger wrote:Electropusher: The charger label on your charger has the same Mitsubishi part number 9481A092 as the charger that I just repaired.
Both are in 2010 I-MIEVs here in Australia that were built in Japan.
You also have the vertical PCB with blown caps in the dog house, VS the older style that had the through hole caps that the vertical PCB emulates. The fault on the one I repaired ended up being a poor solder connection of a 39K 0603 resistor close to where the flex cable connects the top PCB to the bottom PCB of the charger boards. I noticed that when I tried resoldering the 39K resistor, it would not re-solder properly and I found the end caps of the 0603 resistor did not have all of the plating on them. It would be interesting if your charger and my charger happened to be made in the same batch, of the same reel of SMD resistors (with faulty end cap plating), and you also had a bad solder connection in the same area that I had. I think there are actually 2 of these 39k value resistors in this circuit. My charger probably worked for a while until vibration caused the poor cold solder joint to the resistor to open. The lack of solder plating on the ends caps of the resistor is probably why during the manufacturing process, when the PCB was going through the oven, its mounting twisted a bit because the solder past only barely connected and held one end down and it floated a bit.
I think you will find when you dig out the rubbery potting around the vertical PCB in the doghouse, the only damage is the SMD Caps on the vertical pcb. The two spots that look like something else is burnt in front and to the right of the vertical PCB is where the shrapnel from the caps of the vertical PCB Caps has landed, and melted back into the potting. If you dig there, you will find no actual components under that area on
the main PCB. KIEV found the cap values on the other thread and the Murata info is:
DEHR33F102Kppp 3150Vdc 1000pF±10% 13.0mm max. 7.5 6.0mm max. A3B B3B N3A
I used 2 of these through hole caps and soldered to the four pins that connected the vertical PCB to the main board by removing the vertical PCB and soldering the caps to the remaining pins sticking up. I replaced with Altronics equivalents.
nuggetgalore wrote:I have dug some of the potting around the vertical CB and was going to ask if replacing the caps on the board or as per kiev's method is preferable .Now a third method to contemplate.
kiev wrote:nuggetgalore wrote:I have dug some of the potting around the vertical CB and was going to ask if replacing the caps on the board or as per kiev's method is preferable .Now a third method to contemplate.
Even with the newer style enclosure from 2015, it appears that the inner boards may be the same as the 2012--can you post up a photo with the lid off to the side so we can see the insides to be sure.
i like the repair that Simon [DBMandrake] did and that i have seen some others do, as long as the bending of the leads doesn't crack the epoxy coating on the capacitor, i.e. don't bend without needle nose pliers to hold the lead base without strain.
but skylogger was the first to make a successful repair and he had the little circuit board with caps such as you do. It would be worth reaching out to him with private message or a phone chat to get his opinion.
My method of cutting the sides of the doghouse box is probably too much work for questionable benefit. Better to solder the leads into the holes already on the board, or to the remaining stubs of the damaged caps or board.