Don
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Location: Biloxi MS

Re: Possible Cooling System Problem??

Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:05 am

PV1 wrote:My theories are a weak cell or a battery pack that’s been sitting a long time.


I have a 10 page CarFax on it - Actually, it's been pretty regularly driven most of it's life. It was an unsold car that went to lease, It did sit on the car lot from March of 2012 until March of 2013, when it went to lease for 2 years. Auctioned in April of 2015 with 15K on it. 2 owners since then

I'll find me the 'right' dongle and give Canion another try - That'll tell the tale I think

Don
2012 iMiEV SE Premium, White
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kiev
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Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
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Re: Possible Cooling System Problem??

Thu Apr 02, 2020 12:56 pm

i went ahead and drained the pack using the heater while in READY, it went from 5 bars down to 1blinking in about 1h20m. The HV error light came on and i stopped the test. Let it sit for an hour and i was able to drive over to my LVL2 spot.

i plugged in and got all the usual sounds of the fan and contactors snapping, then shortly heard an abnormal snap from the rear--i'm guessing that the fuse/snubbers may have just popped. i'll check on it later...

[edit]
Found 4 DTCs with the i909 scantool and cleared them
EV-ECU
P1A12 Abnormal OBC stop
P1A2F cell malfunction BMU
P1AFB quickcharge time over
BMU
P1A4B each cell voltage difference

i read some datastreams, ECU power supply voltage 14.31, and Occupant Classification Module, Battery Voltage 13.60. So i think the DC/DC is working, and that would mean the MCU fuse is okay. i hope that means the snubbers are okay too.

Using Canion i found the peak max-min difference is 150 mV, and 7 cells were 60 mV below the average. It's a ragged looking pack and way out of balance down at the bottom end.

[edit] trying to get it charged, it tripped off on L2 several times, so i moved it over to connect L1 EVSSE. that seemed to work for awhile but then the GFI blew on the outdoor outlet, reset it and its chugging away, should be done in the morning.
Finished showing 16 bars and 53RR.
Last edited by kiev on Fri Apr 03, 2020 6:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Don
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Re: Battery Problem - Turtle With Several Bars Left

Thu Apr 02, 2020 4:51 pm

Well I ran it down to 5 bars using the heater on Max. Only took about 3 hours. Now I can experiment driving it around a little, flooring it and seeing where the turtle begins to appear

I also ordered an MX OBDLink from Amazon, so maybe by Tuesday Canion can tell me more about the pack

I'm pretty excited about this car for some reason - The color is even beginning to grow on me . . . . a bit, but it's going to be Carolyn's 'new' car and she absolutely loves it. If worse came to worse, I could take the battery pack out of her current car (the one we bought new in 2012) and do a swap. Her car has 35K on it and the RR numbers on it have never gone down - I was VERY careful about how and when we recharged the battery and until recently, very seldom recharged it to full

Don
2012 iMiEV SE Premium, White
2012 iMiEV SE Premium, Raspberry Metallic
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Rember
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Re: Battery Problem - Turtle With Several Bars Left

Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:34 am

Hi everybody, I have the same problem with my 100K (165 000km) 2010 Imiev. When I have 4 bars left, I even don't have the turtle mode, I just have not enough power to get back home (it's difficult besause I live on a hill) and when I try to restart after the stop, the car is vibrating a lot. My mitsubishi dealer is unable to analyse my car because the car frame number is unknown, maybe because it's a right driving car and that in France cars are left driving... Should I use the CanIon application ? It seems to work with bluetooth but I think my imiev is not equiped with this technology.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Rémy

JoeS
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Re: Battery Problem - Turtle With Several Bars Left

Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:43 am

Hello Rémy, and welcome to the forum.

The first step in understanding your battery is to measure it.

To do that you need a OBDLink LX or MX or MX+ Bluetooth adapter which plugs into the car's OBDII connector, an Android phone or tablet with Bluetooth, and an app such as CaniOn or hobdrive.

Your car should have an OBDII port - look under the dashboard above your knees somewhere around the steering column. You must find it and know you have it before you buy anything.

The car itself does not have Bluetooth - the Bluetooth is inside the OBDLink adapter. Be sure you get a genuine OBDLink LX, MX, or MX+ Bluetooth adapter, as cheap imitations do not work.

Once you have the hardware, install the app onto your Android device and follow the instructions when plugging in the OBDLink adapter and pairing it with your Android device. Do NOT try to use the OBDLink software.

Once you have paired the OBDLink adapter to your Android phone or tablet, open the CaniOn app or hobdrive app and hope it links up.

I am only familiar with CaniOn. It is very programmable - you move from screen to screen by swiping sideways. Once you get it working, you can configure the individual screens by selecting from the menus above.

The key information you are interested in is battery capacity (in Ah) and individual cell status (voltage) which with CaniOn is seen on the screen with the 88 vertical bars. Ideally these bars should all be at the same height, or at least within 0.01v of each other.

Let us know how things turn out for you.
EVs: 2 Wht/Blu SE Prem., '13 Tesla MS85, 3 156v CorbinSparrows (2 Li-ion), 24v EcoScoot(LiFePO4)
EV Conv: 156v '86 Ram PU, 144v '65 Saab 96
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ICE: '88 Isuzu Trooper. Mothballed: '67 Saab (orig.owner), '76 MBZ L206D RHD RV

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