Battery Replacement - Lessons Learned

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kiev said:
That's the number in the GS Yausa catalog on page 202,
https://www.gs-battery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/GS-Auto-Cat-2015_web.pdf

The Japan standard terminals are smaller diameter, shown on page 16.

BTW there is some really good information in the appendices about testing, maintenance, and everything you ever wanted to know about lead acid batteries ∿

In the US we have a different numbering, BCI (Battery Council International) Group Size 151R


Thank you Kiev thats a great help. I have asked around about putting in an AGM battery but best advice seems to be replace it with what Mitsubishi had in first dat.
 
I replaced mine from Canada Tire in Toronto with a Honda Fit 12V battery.

What interested me was that Canada Tire charges varying prices for installation depending on the car, minimum $70.

Canada Tire didn't have an I-miEV on their computer but did have the preprepared invoice for a Honda Fit.

Battery replacement labour for the Fit was well over $100. I was able to show the customer service individual how easy replacement was for the I-miEV and he reduced the installation charge to $60.

I could have replaced it myself, but that would have meant returning the old battery later to get back the $20 core charge.
 
Thanks for your testimony. I had an imiev 2012. I wonder if I would have gone through the same situation? I lost mine in a front collision. The parts necessary cost more than the car value. My insurance company paid me for the car. I guess they resold it. I used the money to buy a used 2013 Nissan Leaf. It's good. I'll see how long it lasts me. I'll probably get a used Chevy Bolt next since it has liquid cooling, but I'll see what's affordable if I need another car.
 
Grrrr this all sounds kinda familiar


I am getting just over 20 mile range and in my 20 mile travel to work I get put into limp mode pretty much Every day on ANY slight up hill on the last half of the trip.

I routinely get the car with the exclamation mark idiot light and so yeah... I took it to the dealer... (what a joke..)

the dealer had it for a few days and did the charge and discharge test on it charged 250 dollars (said that they thought that with the idiot light giving battery error codes that that would likely mean a new battery) but they had to do the test..

I was happy to pay 250 if it fixed the issue... it did not... it's just as bad.. I am using 3/4 of a charge to get 20 miles, I am going into limp mode pretty much every day.. .. no... it's every day.. but not every day is it super infringment on the driving.. I mean if there is rain.. or if I DARE try the heater then I am going to be crawling at 20MPH for the last part of the trip that day.

The dealer wants to charge another 200 dollars to look at it... AFTER doing nothing with the first 250.... I just had to leave...
 
CraigJ said:
...
I am using 3/4 of a charge to get 20 miles, I am going into limp mode pretty much every day..

Are you only charging to 3/4 for a reason, or is the car stopping at that level? will the car ever fully charge up to the full 16 bars of the fuel gauge? If it won't, then you should be getting a new pack replaced under warranty if the car is less than 10 yrs old. Time is running out so better check it and move on this quickly.
 
Yes, I'll second Kenny's sentiments. Wouldn't want to let dealer incompetence prevent a warranty claim before the window expires.
 
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