EVSE Upgrade

The one that came with my C-Zero has in it a power supply which only takes in 240VAC, which is unusual.

You can see its innards here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qhr0cv3p39300ya/2014-10-05%2012.44.11.jpg

Of course you could also just open yours and see what it looks like. If it has a universal power supply inside, you might be ok.

jsantala, thanks for taking the lid off. Very similar to our Panasonic insides.

Found this: http://www.instructables.com/id/CONVERTING-A-LEAF-LEVEL-1-12AMP-CHARGER-TO-A-LEVEL/

Needed to join instructables to see the steps, so I did and went through the steps. I tried to get a download but they asked me to join their "Pro" but I refused because I couldn't see what that entailed ahead of time.

The inside of our EVSE has two 120v-sensistive parts: a 120v power supply (small dc-dc like janatala's, but different input voltage) and a 140v varistor for overvoltage protection.

For the modification it looks like he's assuming a four-wire NEMA 14-50 input and uses one leg to power the power supply and installs two 140v varistors for protection and makes a custom 120vac outlet if you want to continue using the EVSE on 120vac. This design will not work with a three-wire 240vac input (e.g., a NEMA 10-50 dryer plug) unless you want to cheat and use the ground wire as a return.

For comparison, here's the EVSE kit I have built into the car right now, so I can also charge without using the J1772 port:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6nsvmjvzlvxt5e0/2015-10-08%2018.16.37.jpg?dl=0

The reasons being a) I can stealth charge using the Calix heater plug if needed and b) I have a secondary charging method in case something happens to by J1772 cable. This one als has a switch which lets me choose between 6 and 10 A (the standard cable I have is only set for 16 A and has no controls).

Accidentally came across this one on aliexpress, it seems to be rated for both voltages:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Type-1-J1772-Protable-Charger-Cord-Connectror-for-Electric-Vehicle-EV-Charging/32602418318.html

JoeS said:

Needed to join instructables to see the steps

Click to expand...

You don't need to join; just hit the "x" (upper right corner) on the box that pops up.

Also, you can use the "View All Steps" button rather than the Download:

http://www.instructables.com/id/CONVERTING-A-LEAF-LEVEL-1-12AMP-CHARGER-TO-A-LEVEL/?ALLSTEPS

jsantala said:

Accidentally came across this one on aliexpress, it seems to be rated for both voltages:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Type-1-J1772-Protable-Charger-Cord-Connectror-for-Electric-Vehicle-EV-Charging/32602418318.html

Click to expand...

My interpretation is that it's configured for either of the two, and hopefully not for 16A for the NA version, which should be 12A max. $300 with shipping to US.

Aha! Interesting stuff!

A big thanks to the photo posted by JSantala and the Instructables link from Joe.

I forgot about the fact that the hand-shake signal is using an AC signal! When thinking about transformers, I'm usually thinking about big ones for the main power! I completely overlooked a little tiny one for for creating 20V AC for the hand-shake.

Swapping out that little transformer for a 240V one would be an easy and permanent way to do a simple 240V conversion, at the expense of NOT being able to do 120V anymore.

The Instructables information was interesting, although not quite as well documented as I would like. I'll have to go through it very slow and deliberately to get the best understanding out of it. For me, having a level one charger that can run at 240V, but still be able to do 120V through a custom power adapter would be a good solution. I already have a nice Level 2 charger in my garage, I almost NEVER have a reason to use the level one (but it's nice to have as an emergency backup), and there's a location I'd like to charge on a semi-regular basis which has 240V power, but I can't permanently leave a charger.

I think I'll open up my charger and take a look inside. It will be fun, and I like voiding warranties.

I also have an friend who has a Volt. His old level one charger died, and he offered it to me. I plan to get it so I can take it apart. If I can fix it, hey, free charger! If not, it's still a fun learning experience. Perhaps I can fix up the broken Volt charger AND just permanently convert it to 240V. That way, I would have both a 120V Level 1 Charger AND a 240V Level 1 Charger!

It still makes me wonder how the EVSE upgrade allows the charger to run on either 120 OR 240?!

What can be used in place of a small transformer to create 20V AC from either 120 OR 240VAC? Is there an electronic device similar to a DC/DC converter that will allow for a broad AC voltage in and always send 20VAC out? Sorry, I'm just not that familiar with electrical components to know if such a thing exists. If it does, it seems reasonable the in the EVSE upgrade, that they replace the transformer with something different for creating the hand-shake signal from either (or a range) of voltages.

Looks like I'll be taking apart some EVSE in my near future.

PS: If anyone wants a free "Pro" membership for Instructables.com, please just message me. I believe I have 44 years worth of free Pro memberships. The Pro gets rid off all the ads on the site, which is nice. I place and win in contests all the time on that web page, so they just keep throwing free memberships and t-shirts my way. I had to check back on the last photo I posted in this thread. Yup, I'm wearing an Instructables t-shirt!

Interesting note. The EVSEUpgrade will NOT charge a Model X, at least mine won't. Then again, it wouldn't charge from my Eaton EVSE either.

Anyone else try charging a Tesla?

PV1 said:

Interesting note. The EVSEUpgrade will NOT charge a Model X, at least mine won't. Then again, it wouldn't charge from my Eaton EVSE either. Anyone else try charging a Tesla?

Click to expand...

I had mentioned that neither the stock Mitsu EVSE nor the EVSEUpgraded EVSE nor my SPX Power Xpress EVSEs charge my Tesla Model S. Their outputs are evidently not fully J1772-compliant - I thought I read somewhere that the square wave instead of being +/-12v is actually +12v/0v - but don't quote me on that as I haven't measured it. Nothing to do with EVSEUpgrade.com but a problem with the basic design in the first place.

Actually, I later found out that another Tesla wouldn't charge from the same outlet using its own mobile connector, so I'll try again tomorrow using a good outlet.

I do remember you saying that you had issues with charging. The EVSEUpgrade wouldn't even engage, but the Eaton station would engage and drop out with the round red light (time delay?)

Nevermind. There was a problem with that particular outlet and the Tesla vehicles. They all refused to charge from their mobile connectors, even though my i-MiEV and a LEAF both charged just fine.

The cord must've been too long :roll: .

Hey y'all,

If anyone is interested I have solved the issue of converting the stock US/Canadian market Panasonic EVSE that comes with the 2012 Mitsubishi I-MiEV and the 2011 and 2012 Nissan Leaf. It involves simply swapping out the 120v AC power supply to a wide voltage unit and removing a small capacitor on the pcb and then changing the input plug to whichever 240AC receptacle you have access to.

I have a Leaf, an I-MiEV, and two Volts that charge beautifully with the modified EVSE. I simply copied the work and sourced the same power supply contained in the two EVSEupgrade-modified units that I own. Parts cost including the input plug cost around $22USD.

Jim

Hi Jim,

I'd be interested in doing exactly what you did.

Do you have a link to a detailed description of what you did and where to get the parts?

Thanks!

-Ben

Ben,

I don't have a DIY manual yet. I have shot many videos for other automotive things and will try to get one in the can within two weeks. The general jist is to open the case, remove the 120V transformer with it's two white electrical plugs and swap in a Recom 21000128 from Digikey.com. Cutting off the two plugs and soldering the four wires to the cut pigtails is all you really have to do. Just be sure to use correctly sized 1/8" or 3/32" heat shrink to keep everything safe. Do NOT use wire nuts. The red POSITIVE wire for the DC output from the Recom power supply goes into the position on the smaller plug that is CLOSEST to the AC input plug. A picture of this detail is posted in the next post.

I went as far as sourcing the JST plugs to make it perfectly plug and play along with the correct receptacles. Those part numbers are below. This method requires you to have the proper crimping pliers and dies which not too many people have. Plus, the 18AWG red and black DC output wires from the Recom power supply are too large a gauge to crimp neatly onto the tiny receptacles for the DC input plugs so I soldered the receptacles on. It took a while to figure out how to solder them on and keep the union small enough to be able to slip into the small white plastic housings. Cutting off the plugs with an inch or two of wire and soldering them to the Recom power supply is the best way to do this mod.

Power supply: Recom 21000128 (RACD03-350) http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=21000128

Here are part numbers ONLY IF you want make a plug and play assembly which is not necessary in my opinion:

DC output metal crimp-on terminals: SXA-001T-P0.6 (2 required per evse, Digikey p/n: 455-1904-1-ND)
DC output 2 position JST plug: PXARP-02V (1 required) special order from JST
AC Input metal crimp-on terminals: SVH-21T-P1.1 (2 required per evse, Digikey p/n: 455-1133-1-ND)
AC Input 3 position JST plug: VHR-3N (Digikey p/n: 455-1184-ND)

Jim

Below is a picture of two I-MiEV Panasonic evse next to each other with the stock, unmodified one at the top and the EVSEUpgrade one at the bottom.

On the lower evse, the arrow in the middle is the spot where the round varistor was removed by EVSEUpgrade. The arrow at the lower right is showing the correct position of the POSITIVE red wire from the RECOM power supply. EVSE Upgrade soldered the positive and negative wires to the pins on the board which is less than desireable. I would just cut the stock wires about an inch from the plug and solder the wires to the red and black output wires of the RECOM power supply instead. EVSEUpgrade also fashioned a strap out of light grey plastic to hold down the RECOM power supply but I used bathroom caulk instead to glue it down the evse I modified. (The evse I modified is not shown in this picture.)

View attachment i-MiEVevsejpg.jpg

Jim

Thanks for sharing the info and pictures, that is a great DIY.

What is the voltage rating of that small fuse--did it need to be changed for 240 vac also?

So the transformer is just a AC step-down, from whichever supply down to about 21 vac, then the potted board has some sort of ac-dc conversion to drive the logic and contactors circuits.

Wonder what's the strategy of removing the varistor?

The fuse was not changed on the two EVSEUpgrade units I personally own so I did not change the fuse on the evse I modified. It is probably a 250V AC fuse.

It is curious that the stock transformer outputs 4V AC to power the board but the power supply which is used to replace it outputs 15 VDC. Works fine...

Jim

I wanted to mention that the 2011-2012 Nissan branded EVSE and the 2012 Mitsubishi branded EVSE are identical devices. If you have an opportunity to buy a cheap 2011-2012 Nissan Leaf EVSE (p/n: 29690 3NA0A ONLY) or 2012 Mitsubishi EVSE on Craigslist then you should buy it, convert it and either use it yourself or sell it back on Craigslist to someone who needs a Level 2 EVSE. Don't sit on it! You could also sell it to me and I can convert it. I have made providing inexpensive EV charging a personal goal. We need to work together to make this as easy and as cheap as possible.

Jim

This is a picture of the EVSE I modified. I chose the plug and play method cause it posed a challenge to me. I don't think it is necessary to do it this way. When I shoot my YouTube video I will just splice the input and output wires of the RECOM power supply to the pigtails of the stock transformer.

View attachment 296903NA0A.jpg

Here are the power supplies I made ready in addition to the one above. I'm just waiting on the next good Craigslist ad for a cheap Level 1 EVSE:

View attachment EVSEproject.jpg

Here is what I used for the input plug. It is a Legrand Pass & Seymour L6-20P plug for $11.87 at Home Depot. This brand of connector is built very well and is easy to install. I was lucky and had an unused 240V outlet in my garage. I installed a L6-20R receptacle since it was plenty of amperage for the 13 amp EVSE. If I had to do it over I would have chosen an L6-30R since the available wiring adapters available on EVSEUpgrade all have a L6-30R on one end.

Most garage outlets will be dryer outlets and will use a 10-30 or 14-50 receptacle. I am only showing my L6-20P since it is what I have. Since the stock EVSE 5-15P is a screwed on Leviton plug it is very straightforward to change it to whatever wall receptacle you have. Please understand that you DO NOT have to change the input cord on these EVSE to switch to Level 2. The 12 AWG input cable is the same gauge as the output cable.

View attachment L6-20P.jpg

View attachment L6-20Pexposed.jpg