2012 USA Wheelbase and Track ?

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kiev

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
2,214
Location
The Heart o' Dixie
Well it was bound to happen--hit a biggas pothole and it knocked my alignment out. i can easily see that the toe-in is off and causing it to pull to the left when the steering wheel is straight ahead. i can see a reduction of range too, as the scrubbing tire is an extra load and using up energy.

i wanted to take a few measurements to see if anything has been pushed back or bent, so does anyone know the specs for wheelbase and front and rear track width?
 
And for this reason I have a lifetime alignment from Sullivan tire ($190) so I can bring it in when ever I want. They also check the whole front end when they have it up for FREE.

I get worried about the Rim on such a small tire.
 
kiev said:
i wanted to take a few measurements to see if anything has been pushed back or bent, so does anyone know the specs for wheelbase and front and rear track width?
Easily found on the Internet

Wheelbase is 100.4" and front track is 55.9" and 54.3" for the rear - If you've hit something so hard that you can *see* the misalignment, it's likely that you've bent something. Your alignment specialist can tell you for sure

My son ran over a partially uncovered manhole (the cover had been pushed aside when flooding from a heavy rain dislodged it) and bent a wheel and cut the tire. We filed a case with the city which has an insurance policy against such things. Their insurance paid for a new tire, new wheel and an alignment

Don
 
My google-fu skills seem to be lacking--i wasn't having your luck.

My measured wb was 100-3/8" and front track at 56, rear at 54-1/2", so that seems to compare well with the spec.

The front toe spec is 3 +/- 3 mm, which is an angle of 0.36 degrees, 0.72 max, 0d min. Your eyeball can easily see misalignment against a parallel line.

The tie-rod has an M12x1.5mm threaded end with 6 (hex) flats, so the adjustment can be made to the nearest flat or even to the hex corners ( allowing for increments of 1/12th of a full turn), giving an adjustment resolution down to 0.125mm or 0.005". Just picture the hour positions on an analog clock as an analogy.

So to get kiev in line i had to back out the R tie-rod 4 flats or 1 mm, now i'm back on the straight and narrow.

i'll put the strangs on it this weekend to check my work...
edit---
With the strings i measured toe-in at 3.5mm on L and 2.5mm on R. Starting a new thread about the design of toe-in adjustment.
 
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