PV1 wrote:......So, yes, you'll get much more heat by using a 240 volt EVSE rated at 16 amps or better. Plus, instead of a slight drain on the battery using the stock cord, pre-heating at 240 volts either won't use any battery or can still provide a trickle charge once the coolant is heated up.
What also helps, I find, is using the Defrost option instead of HEAT on the remote. This will
I use the upgrades stock charger that can do 120 or 240v.
But seeing little or no need in our use pattern to charge faster than the 12amp 120 mode opted to avoid the in our case considerable cost and hassle to put a 240 plugin in the garage.
So what's this "slight drain on the battery" you say I'm getting when I preheat (and may I presume also when I precool)?
First I've heard of it. Are you saying if I overnight did a full charge, preheated in the morning, when I step in to drive off I'd have less tha a full charge?
Also... When I preheat I set it to not charge .... Presuming that at 12 amps 120v it either will not have enough juice to do both ... And unsure which it would give priority... Or at least would be heating less robustly. Anyone can confirm this take? Or could I set it to charge and preheat and it woul just do both slower.
Also... It's my impression that when I preheat (as I said with no simultaneous attempt to charge) that it does so for about 1/2 hour then quits. Works out OK for me,.
but curious ....does anyone know if that's a timeout (like so one diesn't accidently leave it heating in the garage for two days) or if it's thermostatic... Shutting off heating because my heater control is set at the halfway green dot and it has reached that temp?
That is, would it preheat interior higher if I turned the temp setting higher on the upper dial?
Yeah, I sometimes use defrost often instead of "heat" on a preheat...but mainly because in my usually pretty mild chill wanting to try to avoid window condensation-fogging is higher priority than warming the whole interior. Besides, defrost seems to warm whole interior.