bigpete
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2020 1:04 pm

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Fri Apr 03, 2020 5:37 am

Thanks misterbleepy, I will try them.

coulomb
Posts: 198
Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:32 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Sat Apr 11, 2020 2:53 am

I thought I saw a post where someone, possibly Kiev, had found a source for replacement MCU fuses that were close enough to the originals to be usable. I can't seem to find that post now; perhaps it's in a different topic. Anyone have a link? I know the fuses are tough to find.

Apologies in advance if I'm just bad at searching.

kiev
Posts: 1163
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Sat Apr 11, 2020 4:33 am

No problem, i couldn't find it with a search either; then realized it was posted elsewhere.

There is a MCU fuse investigation thread with analysis, theories and simulations to figure out why it is failing, and purchasing info from Mouser, (it is the 10.3 diameter not the 7.2mm)

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=4310&hilit=MCU+fuse&start=10#p39900

[edit: Joe recommended to Boldface the font to help future folks searching for this]
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

coulomb
Posts: 198
Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:32 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Sat Apr 11, 2020 10:48 pm

kiev wrote:No problem, i couldn't find it with a search either; then realized it was posted elsewhere.

Ah, thanks! I'd forgotten that topic.

There is a MCU fuse investigation thread with analysis, theories and simulations to figure out why it is failing, and purchasing info from Mouser, (it is the 10.3 diameter not the 7.2mm)

Ah! To be clear, you're saying that the original Mitsubishi fuse is actually 10.3 mm diameter, not the 7.2 mm diameter that the earlier posted PDF refers to, in the index? So the index should refer to this drawing instead? If so, that clears up a lot of confusion (on my part, at least).

Edit: so the fuse I found in this post is possibly also a good, if not exact, fit.
Last edited by coulomb on Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

nuggetgalore
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 12:46 am

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Sun Apr 12, 2020 1:00 am

coulomb wrote:
kiev wrote:No problem, i couldn't find it with a search either; then realized it was posted elsewhere.

Ah, thanks! I'd forgotten that topic.

There is a MCU fuse investigation thread with analysis, theories and simulations to figure out why it is failing, and purchasing info from Mouser, (it is the 10.3 diameter not the 7.2mm)

Ah! To be clear, you're saying that the original Mitsubishi fuse is actually 10.3 mm diameter, not the 7.2 mm diameter that the earlier posted PDF refers to, in the index? So the index should refer to this drawing instead? If so, that clears up a lot of confusion (on my part, at least).

Edit: so the fust I found in this post is possibly also a good, if not exact, fit.


Hello Coulomb ,kiev and all the contributors,
so glad I found you here and on the AEVA site.

I just read some more pages of this huge library of iMiEV knowledge.

I now removed the blown fuse and can confirm the 10.3 mm diameter and 53 mm slot spacing . Bolt is 5mm dia, assuming M5 but have not verified the pitch.
Anyway, fuse replacement is going to wait until the OBC is repaired.
Cheers Andy

nuggetgalore
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 12:46 am

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Mon Apr 13, 2020 3:20 pm

skylogger wrote:Electropusher: The charger label on your charger has the same Mitsubishi part number 9481A092 as the charger that I just repaired.
Both are in 2010 I-MIEVs here in Australia that were built in Japan.
You also have the vertical PCB with blown caps in the dog house, VS the older style that had the through hole caps that the vertical PCB emulates. The fault on the one I repaired ended up being a poor solder connection of a 39K 0603 resistor close to where the flex cable connects the top PCB to the bottom PCB of the charger boards. I noticed that when I tried resoldering the 39K resistor, it would not re-solder properly and I found the end caps of the 0603 resistor did not have all of the plating on them. It would be interesting if your charger and my charger happened to be made in the same batch, of the same reel of SMD resistors (with faulty end cap plating), and you also had a bad solder connection in the same area that I had. I think there are actually 2 of these 39k value resistors in this circuit. My charger probably worked for a while until vibration caused the poor cold solder joint to the resistor to open. The lack of solder plating on the ends caps of the resistor is probably why during the manufacturing process, when the PCB was going through the oven, its mounting twisted a bit because the solder past only barely connected and held one end down and it floated a bit.

I think you will find when you dig out the rubbery potting around the vertical PCB in the doghouse, the only damage is the SMD Caps on the vertical pcb. The two spots that look like something else is burnt in front and to the right of the vertical PCB is where the shrapnel from the caps of the vertical PCB Caps has landed, and melted back into the potting. If you dig there, you will find no actual components under that area on
the main PCB. KIEV found the cap values on the other thread and the Murata info is:
DEHR33F102Kppp 3150Vdc 1000pF±10% 13.0mm max. 7.5 6.0mm max. A3B B3B N3A
I used 2 of these through hole caps and soldered to the four pins that connected the vertical PCB to the main board by removing the vertical PCB and soldering the caps to the remaining pins sticking up. I replaced with Altronics equivalents.

Reading through this very long thread I realise that my 2010 iMiEV also sports a newer 2015 charger with now the identical problem.
Edit:added photo of part no, s/n and date
https://imgur.com/oqI0S2K
https://imgur.com/a/75PEnVn
I have dug some of the potting around the vertical CB and was going to ask if replacing the caps on the board or as per kiev's method is preferable .Now a third method to contemplate.

kiev
Posts: 1163
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Mon Apr 13, 2020 5:46 pm

nuggetgalore wrote:I have dug some of the potting around the vertical CB and was going to ask if replacing the caps on the board or as per kiev's method is preferable .Now a third method to contemplate.


Even with the newer style enclosure from 2015, it appears that the inner boards may be the same as the 2012--can you post up a photo with the lid off to the side so we can see the insides to be sure.

i like the repair that Simon [DBMandrake] did and that i have seen some others do, as long as the bending of the leads doesn't crack the epoxy coating on the capacitor, i.e. don't bend without needle nose pliers to hold the lead base without strain.

but skylogger was the first to make a successful repair and he had the little circuit board with caps such as you do. It would be worth reaching out to him with private message or a phone chat to get his opinion.

My method of cutting the sides of the doghouse box is probably too much work for questionable benefit. Better to solder the leads into the holes already on the board, or to the remaining stubs of the damaged caps or board.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

nuggetgalore
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 12:46 am

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:29 pm

kiev wrote:
nuggetgalore wrote:I have dug some of the potting around the vertical CB and was going to ask if replacing the caps on the board or as per kiev's method is preferable .Now a third method to contemplate.


Even with the newer style enclosure from 2015, it appears that the inner boards may be the same as the 2012--can you post up a photo with the lid off to the side so we can see the insides to be sure.

i like the repair that Simon [DBMandrake] did and that i have seen some others do, as long as the bending of the leads doesn't crack the epoxy coating on the capacitor, i.e. don't bend without needle nose pliers to hold the lead base without strain.

but skylogger was the first to make a successful repair and he had the little circuit board with caps such as you do. It would be worth reaching out to him with private message or a phone chat to get his opinion.

My method of cutting the sides of the doghouse box is probably too much work for questionable benefit. Better to solder the leads into the holes already on the board, or to the remaining stubs of the damaged caps or board.


G'day,
so pleased that I can access your (and all the others) vast experience, very much appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/iQyYHqF
https://imgur.com/a/wolOdqd

kiev
Posts: 1163
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Mon Apr 13, 2020 10:02 pm

That's a really clean OBC, looks brand new inside. It has the same boards as the previous years so this thread applies to your situation. Hopefully some new capacitors and a fuse will have you fixed right up.

The design of those snubber capacitors seems to have changed over time, probably in an attempt to solve the blowing capacitor issue. We don't have any Japanese folks on this forum, but i'll bet they had a rash of failures over there that prompted the change.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

clovi
Posts: 49
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:36 am

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter

Sun Apr 19, 2020 4:23 pm

Hi everyone.
After a battery warranty on my oldest IMIEV, the Bianco, (It's doing great, 99.500 miles) I have the same DC to DC converter problem with my wife's IMIEV, the Vino (48.000 miles).
Of course, Mitsu is not giving any warranty or help.
Thanks to all you guys, I could open the box.
I can see both white resistors burned and probably 1 of the big capacitors, I think.
Could I send this to someone to fix? I don't have the knowledge and/or tools to do it.
Seems that KIEV/Coulomb do it? Please let me know.
Thanks,
2 IMIEVS.
Bianco - 95.5 K miles
Vino - 48K miles

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