I'm adding a discussion that was on a PM to this thread, as it might be helpfull to others:
It sounds like you have done quite a bit of research to getting this fixed.
The CAN buss probably controls the functioning of the box so that may hinder testing, but the spare pack and 12V is a good idea.
There is also the 1 khz pwm handshake signal thru the level 1 charge port to consider.
Supposedly the charger box is not VIN coded, so maybe it could be piggy-back connected to your car's CAN and come on, but the system is probably too integrated for that to work. Something has to trigger the AC input relay and then it would need PFC voltage and current control, as well as charger output voltage and current control.
i think it would be a good idea for you to post up about this PM, your charger issue, testing, repairs, status, etc. You could either start a new one dedicated to your situation or put it in the charger troubleshooting thread.
Before taking the charger out of the car, I took the lid off, and "hindged the top PCB over so I could look at the parts in the doghouse. I see there must be two versions, as I have seen one version with two blue thru hole caps, and another version with a vertical small pcb with SMD Caps on it. The version we have has the SMD CAPs on it. I saw on the previous thread that someone found the part markings for the caps, and came up with murata part numbers. The charger just got removed from the car, and I will be picking it up tomorrow so I can continue working on it. I can use the chopstick method of removing the potting so I can see if resistors are also blown.
The 20amp fuse in the Inverter is also blown, so that is why both the AC charger and the DC-DC Functions are both not working. Since the caps were blown away, at this stage I do not know if anything else is shorted to cause the 20 amp fuse to blow. After I fix all the problems with the components in the doghouse, I probably will need to remove the board it is attached to so I can get down to the heatsink and see if any of the MOSFETs are shorted. I saw someone say that all of the solder connections along the two white strips need to be desoldered before the PCB Can be removed from the box. I think all of the solder points along the white strips are actually the leads from the MOSFETS. So it might be able to check the MOSFETS without completely removing the PCB. Another thought I had, was that the reason it was thought that all the solder connections had to be desoldered to remove the PCB, was because the MOSFETs are fixed to the Heatsink, but the Heatsink is probably just fitted to the cooling tank with heatsink compound, causing a seal that is hard to break. This is pressured down with the PCB is pulled down when the screws in the standoffs are tightened down.
Yes I am familair with the hack to apply 12v to the pin on the QC Relay to fource the contacts to close and allow use of the Chademo port. I've built two "Electric Jerry cans" that I put inside the cargo area, and use a TDK 48V to 360v DC-DC Converter fed through the Chademo port to charge the traction battery. This allows charging from the Jerry cans, even while driving. It should be noted that this method can only be used when the car is in the "READY" state, so the car thinks the charging current comming in is the same as regenerative braking and the BMU Calculates the charge as such.
I wonder if the 20amp fuse blew just because a power surge happened, or if there is actual MOSFET Damage causing a short that blew the fuse. I have a spare battery pack that was removed from another car, that I can use as a load. I don't know if the charger will function in a dumb mode if only 240VAC is applied to the ac input, HV output is connected to my test battery, and a 12v battery is connected to the DC-DC Output. I don't know if it will work with the CANBUS Connector not connected to anything, so would it power up and just power down because of no canbus communications? This would be a great way to test everything before trying to put it back in the car.
I'll let you know what I find out when I get the unit on the bench. Look forward to more info from you, and I might cut and paste this PM Back to the thread if ok?
Sorry to hear about the failed chargers over there in WA, but hopefully we can find a solution, especially since coulomb (Mike) in Sydney is alert to the problem. He and i have worked over several years on troubleshooting and repair of diy EV chargers.
One of the forum members has sent me his broken charger and it will be here next week. i should be able to give you an answer about repairs after i get it and clean out the doghouse.
As far as options, i think there may be two using an aftermarket charger such as from TCCH or Lear, depending upon whether or not the car has a Chademo port for Level 3 charging.
With chademo, the charger output could be connected thru the port sockets to the pack by switching on the main contactors using the dcqc relay which is located under the rear seat.
Without chademo, the charger output could be routed to the pack at the terminals located within the motor control unit and switching on the main contactors using the key switch to READY.
What is your level of comfort with handling electrical stuff? Have you pulled the charger cover to inspect for scorching or burned components?
Hi Kiev: I saw a discussion you had with Electronpusher in regards to repairing the charger/DC-DC Converter. Seems there are quite a few of these with the resistor and caps blown up in the "doghouse" potted section on the charger. Do you know if anyone has been able to replace these components and get a unit back up and running? Do you know if in addition to these parts, was anything else found faulty? There are two people here in Perth area with blown chargers so we are looking at what options and any updates on what can be done.
Thanks for your help,
Last edited by skylogger
on Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:29 am, edited 1 time in total.