JoeS
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Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Fri Jun 01, 2018 12:42 pm

Lic, this is frustrating and I commiserate with you. Thank you for keeping us up to date, and wish you all the best with getting the dealer to tell you what they did and, more importantly, if you yourself can do whatever reset it was.

Another example of being held hostage to a manufacturer by a closed system requiring dedicated troubleshooting equipment (in this case, MUT3).

Do keep us up to date as things progress with you. Good luck!
EVs: 2 Wht/Blu SE Prem., '13 Tesla MS85, 3 156v CorbinSparrows (2 Li-ion), 24v EcoScoot(LiFePO4)
EV Conv: 156v '86 Ram PU, 144v '65 Saab 96
Hybrids: 48v1kW bike
ICE: '88 Isuzu Trooper. Mothballed: '67 Saab (orig.owner), '76 MBZ L206D RHD RV

kiev
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Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Fri Jun 01, 2018 4:22 pm

A weak or old 12V aux battery will cause a multitude of problems. They fixed it by replacing your 12V. You put the old one back in and the problems came back.

Do you have the equipment to measure the voltage and current of the 12V aux battery under load? if not then you don't really know the condition, even if it is "new" that doesn't mean squat. Open circuit unloaded it should read 12.8 or higher, if not then it is suspect. If it is weak then that voltage will cave in when the battery is loaded down.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sat Jun 02, 2018 1:59 pm

i have hyperion 1420 charger. I tested my battery and it showed good capacity and it can provide good current without big voltage dropping, plus i measured internal resistance and it was fine (i don't remember exact numbers). so i am sure in my battery.
so i looked car by launch tester and only serious error was P1A15. i erased it and car showed ready. I tried to switch it on and off several times - it was fine. i tried to make small ride and after switch off and on car showed same error again and doesn't show ready. i tried to find what is make car to show error and found that condenser charging timeout flag is on every time when car shows error P1A15. it is look like most likely car will show ready if i did car small rest before. same problem with same error when i tried to charge car. i tried to use other 12v battery from my other car and everything was the same - it is easy to get ready if i didn't use car some time and it starts to show error after even small ride. when car is show ready condenser voltage is 340v and real battery voltage is 350v.
i did small video about how reacts voltages and contactors positions when i am trying to switch on car and it doesn't start. i will show it if somebody interesting.

kiev
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Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sat Jun 02, 2018 6:01 pm

Maybe there is a loose or corroded wire terminal, or a bad pre-charge resistor, or a defective bleed-off resistor, or too-high contact resistance in the contactors-- somewhere between the pack and the large capacitor in the MCU.

Increased electrical Resistance in this wiring path would slow the rate at which the big cap charges, plus it would reduce the voltage. Somehow you are getting a 10 volt drop across that path, which seems really excessive. Back in the past i pulled the cover off the MCU and measured the voltage directly with a meter--the pack was at 360 and the terminals at the capacitor were at that same voltage. i should go check it again with the carsoft i909 scanner.

This may be why you are getting that trouble code, because it is taking too long for the cap to charge up and when it does the voltage does not go high enough.

send the link and i'll watch the video.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle


kiev
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Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:07 am

What app are you using to display that data?

i downloaded and was able to view the videos.

in the second video it appeared that the main + contactor indicator (diag) never came on when you tried to start. Also it showed that the charge contactor output and indicator (diag) were both turned ON.

The condenser voltage went to 338 but the pack was at 350, so that is what triggered the condenser timeout flag, and that would set the HV error light on the dash.

But how can the condenser get any voltage at all if the main(+) never came ON? Maybe the contactor did come on, but the indicator switch is defective?

Here's some ideas:
1. Lately we seem to be hearing about several folks with dc/dc converter box/ charger box, having failures and issues. If the charger-dc/dc converter box was drawing too much current due to an internal fault, then it could cause the condenser chargeup time to be too slow. They share the same wire from the pack to the MCU, then there is a connector between the MCU and Charger. Try disconnecting that on the fat orange cable that connects the charger to the MCU and see if the condenser timeout error goes away when there is no load from the dcdc/charger box.

2. Some fault of the main (+) contactor, either not being driven ON by the EV-ECU, or fault in the contactor itself.

3. Fault of the contactor indicator switch (diag)--the EVECU thinks the main is not ON even though it is, and it shuts down the READY
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:46 pm

kiev wrote:What app are you using to display that data?

chinese launch x431

kiev wrote:in the second video it appeared that the main + contactor indicator (diag) never came on when you tried to start. Also it showed that the charge contactor output and indicator (diag) were both turned ON.

The condenser voltage went to 338 but the pack was at 350, so that is what triggered the condenser timeout flag, and that would set the HV error light on the dash.

But how can the condenser get any voltage at all if the main(+) never came ON? Maybe the contactor did come on, but the indicator switch is defective?

yes, it is confuses me too. I thought may be in the beginning car uses main(-) and charge contactor to charge condenser and if charge process finished well - car is switching on main(+). Is it possible?

kiev wrote:Here's some ideas:
1. Lately we seem to be hearing about several folks with dc/dc converter box/ charger box, having failures and issues. If the charger-dc/dc converter box was drawing too much current due to an internal fault, then it could cause the condenser chargeup time to be too slow. They share the same wire from the pack to the MCU, then there is a connector between the MCU and Charger. Try disconnecting that on the fat orange cable that connects the charger to the MCU and see if the condenser timeout error goes away when there is no load from the dcdc/charger box.


Yes, I could try it. But If car started I should see problems with 12v line or I should see that car is taking too much power in ready mode and not moving. But it was the same 0.4kW like before.

kiev wrote:3. Fault of the contactor indicator switch (diag)--the EVECU thinks the main is not ON even though it is, and it shuts down the READY

in this case it should stop immediately and not wait if condenser will reach battery voltage or not.

kiev
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Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:16 pm

Before doing the test, make sure the 12V Aux is strong and fully charged, just to take that out of the picture and not have to worry about an issue with it.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

kiev
Posts: 815
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
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Contact: Website

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sat Jun 23, 2018 6:31 am

i posted some diagrams in a troubleshooting thread

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4079&p=36346#p36346


In the first diagram you can see that there are 3 contactors in the pack: charging, main[+], and main[-]

If the main + doesn't come on then the voltage is reaching the condenser thru the charging contactor path, which has a Resistor in the path and will cause a slower condenser rise time.

Maybe the issue is in the EV-ECU? Why is it commanding the charging contactor instead of Main while trying to start to READY mode. Why isn't Main[+] coming on--is it even being commanded.

One way to check would be put a voltmeter on the EV-ECU line that commands Main[+] and see if it goes to 12V when trying to start. EVECU is under the rear seat, yellow wire in connector 111, terminal 107, check voltage between here and ground/chassis.

Connectors make for quick and easy installation, but they are the most likely candidate for intermittent issues. The sliding contacts are prone to oxidation and dirt. Sometimes just disconnecting and cleaning the contacts with spray can of cleaner compound will provide a fix. With key OFF, just pull all the connectors on EVECU and BMU and clean all of them.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Mon Jun 25, 2018 1:47 pm

For me it is look reasonable to precharge condenser through charge resistor and after successful charging - connect main(+).

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