First, I know absolutely nothing about the BMU in our cars other than what little Mitsu has shared with us . . . . I've read everything I can find, but they're not revealing too much
peterdambier wrote:If you stop somewhere in the middle and watch how fast voltage drops and compare with temperature you get and indication of state of charge and of battery health. That point is chosen randomly to build a more complete picture by adding the results from different charges.
It makes perfect sense to me that this interruption in the charging cycle is evidence of the BMU at work and Peter's answer above seems logical and makes sense to me. I'm guessing he's pretty accurately described what's happeneing
Many here have converted cars to EV's and others have built EV's from scratch. I haven't, but I considered doing so for a long time and read everything I could find on the subject. You can buy pretty state of the art components - Good motors, motor controllers, LiPo batteries, chargers and even BMU's which control the charge process and help equalize the cells as they charge, but . . . . if you buy the best components available and put them in an old ICE with 100K on it, you're going to spend $20K (not counting your labor) and you're still going to have a 100K car (which probably needs a paint job) and you still won't have anything remotely like what you get when you buy an iMiEV. You may not have air conditioning or power steering and you definitely won't have a battery system likely to last you 3,000 charge cycles and 100,000 miles. I'm not aware of any standalone BMU system on the market which cares for a battery pack like the one which came in our car . . . . period
When I test drove the iMiEV, I was DELIGHTED - I told my wife I could easily spend nearly as much money and the better part of a year of my time and still not be able to build an EV half as good as this one. Buying this car seemed like a 'no-brainer' to me . . . . and that was before Mitsu kicked in a $10K rebate