jray3
Posts: 1599
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Tue Jun 26, 2018 10:49 pm

Today I received that pesky 20A 400V fuse under the inverter inspection cover that pops when there is a charger OR DCDC fault. It is Mitsubishi part #9499A656. Thanks go out to Concord Mitsubishi of Concord, CA for shipping it directly to me. MR BEAN is back to 100%
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 96,000 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

PV1
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Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:39 am

KiEV, the main positive contactor won't engage until the condenser is at pack voltage. Since the condenser tops out 12 volts shy of pack voltage, the car errors and never connects the pack.

It appears that the condenser discharges really quickly after the flag was set, which may point to an undesired load somewhere in the system. In my experience, I usually hear a clunk 5 seconds after powering the car off, which I believe is the negative main contactor dropping out after condenser discharge is complete. This load would cause the condenser to not charge quickly enough given a fixed current source (the pre-charge resistor), so it times out before fully charging.

Lic, just to verify, is the fuse feeding the DC-DC converter blown?
:idea: :idea: :idea: :!: :!:

Dropbox maintenance in progress. If any of my links aren't working after November 17, please PM me and let me know which one isn't working.

Thanks.

Lic
Posts: 61
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:09 pm

PV1 wrote:
Lic, just to verify, is the fuse feeding the DC-DC converter blown?

No. If car starts - it is working fine. It takes charge, it drives well.

PeterJohn1
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2018 10:20 am

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Fri Oct 12, 2018 10:52 am

Hi..i think it is really odd that it blows the fuse to the inverter while charging--i wouldn't have guessed that power was applied to the inverter at that time, can't see any reason why it would be needed or desired.

pcb assembly process
Last edited by PeterJohn1 on Thu Oct 25, 2018 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

jray3
Posts: 1599
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:19 pm

PeterJohn1 wrote:Hi..i think it is really odd that it blows the fuse to the inverter while charging--i wouldn't have guessed that power was applied to the inverter at that time, can't see any reason why it would be needed or desired.


That 20 amp fuse located in the inverter enclosure actually serves as both the charger output and the DC-DC input fuse.
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 96,000 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

Bjron
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2018 11:05 pm

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Wed Nov 14, 2018 1:44 pm

I got p1a15 code when i was in Chdademo charger and started fast charge.. yea it wont let car to go Ready mode.

I reboted 12v battery there hope DTC to clear but nono.. instead when reset 12v battery i got about 15% more SOC and 15km more range. Even car didnt charge at all. Soc meter started with bar to bar more. So it did reset also

. Just wondering how it gived 15% more soc?
Do u think i might need ask maintenance just reprogram ECU to not get p1a15 active after every DTC clear?

Bjron
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2018 11:05 pm

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sat Nov 17, 2018 12:04 pm

Lic which Lauch x431 u have?

Is it this one.? https://www.amazon.com/Creader-Scanner- ... 4048118011


Nice price 29$ for model 3001

Lic
Posts: 61
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:59 am

Lic wrote:i have hyperion 1420 charger. I tested my battery and it showed good capacity and it can provide good current without big voltage dropping, plus i measured internal resistance and it was fine (i don't remember exact numbers). so i am sure in my battery.
so i looked car by launch tester and only serious error was P1A15. i erased it and car showed ready. I tried to switch it on and off several times - it was fine. i tried to make small ride and after switch off and on car showed same error again and doesn't show ready. i tried to find what is make car to show error and found that condenser charging timeout flag is on every time when car shows error P1A15. it is look like most likely car will show ready if i did car small rest before. same problem with same error when i tried to charge car. i tried to use other 12v battery from my other car and everything was the same - it is easy to get ready if i didn't use car some time and it starts to show error after even small ride. when car is show ready condenser voltage is 340v and real battery voltage is 350v.
i did small video about how reacts voltages and contactors positions when i am trying to switch on car and it doesn't start. i will show it if somebody interesting.

So after long time I returned to repair car. All those time car was sitting on driveway. I tried to remove error and start car but after about 30 attempts I was not able to get ready. So in summer I left car in state in which car was starting successfully time to time, but right now it does not show ready at all. Same error, same problem - condenser can't charge in right time. It is strange why car doesn't show ready at all. Big difference is only temperature between summer and this time. I think I will try to open MCU and look condenser, but I am not sure what exactly to check. Any suggestions?

PS I didn't use car from Jun 17. Before car had capacity around 36ah. Right now as I can see it has capacity in BMU settings only 29ah. I left car with around 67% SOC. For me it is strange that car lost so much capacity when it was just sitting on driveway.

coulomb
Posts: 135
Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:32 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Wed Jan 09, 2019 4:49 am

Lic wrote: I think I will try to open MCU and look condenser, but I am not sure what exactly to check. Any suggestions?

I would think it's not likely to be the capacitor ("condenser" is an ancient term for capacitor); it would have to have *extra* capacitance to cause this problem. [ Edit: Sigh. I contradict myself below; it could also be that the capacitor has very high leakage, but that seems unlikely. ] I think it's more likely to be one of
  • Pre-charge resistor
  • Pre-charge or one of the main contactors (positive or negative)
  • Something causing extra load on the high voltage side, e.g. blown components in the MCU, or more likely given the history we've seen, the On Board Charrger. In particular, it might be those small capacitors in the OBC that blow so frequently. If the DC-DC and OBC 20 A fuse hasn't blown but those capacitors are shorted, then you won't be able to achieve ready.
  • The auxiliary battery, especially since it's had ample time to discharge with all the little loads that cars have, and we know that a weak auxiliary battery can cause all sorts of problems. In particular, it might not be able to pull in three contactors, if it's really weak.
It could be the capacitor in the motor controller having very high leakage, but it would need to be nearly a dead short for that leakage to prevent readiness. That's the only part mentioned above that's in the MCU (apart from the 20 A fuse, and it's accessible via a cover), and inside you will see this:

Image

The capacitor is the large black thing with "MEIDEN" written on it. Unless it's melted or otherwise visibly deformed, I doubt that you'll be able to determine much by looking at it, unfortunately.

Only the auxiliary battery is easy to test/fix. Give it a charge with a 12 V charrger, since the DC-DC can't charge if from the traction battery without achieving ready (battery connected to HV circuits, such as DC-DC input). If it's older than say 3 years, replace it. If none of that helps, you'll need to try and measure the drain on the high voltage bus, without electroplating yourself. How confident are you with this sort of thing? I've heard of people activating contactors manually and measuring the resistance of the pre-charge resistor, but this is far from trivial if you're not set up for that sort of thing, and of course one end of the resistor you'd be measuring is connected to traction battery positive.

Lic
Posts: 61
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:53 am

12v is fine for sure. I have actually 3 around me. One of them 6 months old original mitsubishi i-miev battery. It is fully charged and checked for capacity and ability to provide good current without big voltage drop.
I am fine to work with hi voltage battery. I have a lot of experience with repair and modifying my 116V electric scooter.

I don't think there is a problem with extra load on hi voltage side. When dealer kind "repaired" car - I drove and charged car without any problems. Car showed regular 0.4A consumption from big battery on parking shift in ready mode. It was nothing unusual except it doesn't show ready after restart.

So I think the same - I need some how check precharge resistor and main contactors. Is there information how manually switch on main contactors?

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