carnut1100
Posts: 45
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2013 11:29 pm
Location: Tasmania, Australia

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:19 am

Looks like I will be getting to "hack" an imiev shortly...
Seems like we will be cutting a deal with insurance that means we retain the wreck, and the plan is to view it as a gift wrapped EV conversion kit.

DonDakin
Posts: 376
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:10 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:07 pm

Lucky you...

I mean to play with a wrecked imiev not that you got in a wreck that sucks...

Please do keep us on the forum up to date with what you do. If you crack the pack open i would love to find out more about the temp sensors. Where they are located and if they are really accurate. Any testing you can do in this area would be much appreciated if the car is in good enough shape to do this kind of thing.

Good luck with your project.

Don.....

GdB
Posts: 146
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:06 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Jan 16, 2015 1:56 pm

What are your plans?

The worst thing about the i-MiEV is the high drag body, so it's a great starting point to make a roadster. If you could find an old beater Saab, MG, Triumph, Karman Ghia, and transplant the body...

The beautiful Porsche 550 Spyder would be my 1st choice

Keep it light and the acceleration will be nice also.
My EVs: Mitsubishi Zero (2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV and 2014 Zero S 11.4 Motorcycle)

jray3
Posts: 1623
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Sat Jan 17, 2015 1:19 am

I have been perplexed by the relatively high apparent values of salvage i-mievs given the general un-love for our cars, and have come to the sobering conclusion that with used cars now getting into sub-$10,000 range, an entire working i-MiEV would be a better buy than new CALB cells or even a salvaged LEAF pack in order to lithiumize my other EV, the Karmann Eclectric!
I'd certainly prefer not to gut a good car and find a salvage i, but the prospect of removing cells from a low mileage car and putting it in 'cold storage' is also appealing to some degree.....
I'm also perplexed that after watching the CoPart auctions for two years, I've not seen a single salvage i-MiEV from California. What's up with that?
If Anyone would like to collaborate on such plz let me know. Otherwise, Don- you're closest to the cheapest used i on Cars.com, so be forewarned. Better get it before I do!
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 102,600 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

GdB
Posts: 146
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:06 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Sat Jan 17, 2015 1:05 pm

Or you can make it a range extender trailer somehow?
My EVs: Mitsubishi Zero (2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV and 2014 Zero S 11.4 Motorcycle)

jray3
Posts: 1623
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Sat Jan 17, 2015 5:52 pm

GdB wrote:Or you can make it a range extender trailer somehow?

Hmmm, what are you proposing here- taking the i-MiEV battery tray out of the car and setting it on a trailer? Yup, that should be easy enough, or a front-end collision-salvage car could be made into a trailer by just cutting away all the extra body work and leave the drivetrain intact for pushing and regen... The tongue weight would likely be excessive for an i-MiEV if we don't add a counterweight behind the rear axle of the trailer. That also brings up the possibility of an "Electric Pusher Trailer".. That's right, tow an intact i-MiEV behind a gasser and push with it, as well as employing regen. That would be an awesome feature for RV dinghy use. I'm convinced that the ban by Mitsu on flat towing was simply a legal CYA move, and there's no technical reason to not flat tow the car if it is turned on and in Neutral. (Or perform a regen recharge of varying intensity by picking your drive mode before a long downhill grade.)
Here's the only electric pusher that I'm aware of.
http://www.evalbum.com/1713

I'd rather not need a trailer for my daily commute, but reserve trailers for 'special trips'. A small range trailer does open the possibility of designing a conversion (or buying and OEM EV) with the smallest pack that will handle your normal routine, and use the trailer for special trips.
Some range trailer concepts like the AC Propulsion Long Ranger, the EP Tender, and Rinnspeed's Dock+Go, are designed to be unobtrusive enough for frequent use.
http://www.evnut.com/rav_longranger.htm
http://www.eptender.com/
http://evworld.com/news.cfm?newsid=27012
There was also a cute little animation of a Rinnspeed-type concept for the i-MiEV by some Danish or German college students, IIRC, but I'm not finding it now.
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 102,600 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

GdB
Posts: 146
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:06 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:00 am

I looked at the E-Trailer “Electric (I.C.E) Pusher”. I don't see the point of it.
Electric power assisting an ICE will just push it more into the horribly inefficient zone of operation.
Unless the gearing is massively modified to have an extreme overdrive so the almost no excess power is available for hills and acceleration. A gasoline engine would not like that (lugging), but a Diesel would be happier in that mode.

The http://www.evnut.com/rav_longranger.htm was very interesting. A small automotive Diesel would have been a lot more efficient. Motorcycle engines are not very efficient.

Good point about the unsuitability of the i for a trailer.

I am thinking of converting my pickup truck into a trailer when the ICE expires.

HERE IS ONE LAST IDEA FOR HACKING THE SALVAGE i-MiEV !

Make it a parallel hybrid by adding a sprocket to the drive shaft - transmission joint. Connect that sprocket to a nice high revving 600cc or 1000cc motorcycle engine and transmission (more power and more efficient by virtue of larger combustion chamber). Now you have some crazy performance and a lot more efficient than the donor bike. Bikes have terrible aerodynamics so a nice clean roadster with narrow tires could have equal or lower drag. I suggest a gearing to lower RPM's a lot, since 6 gears gives you plenty of options.

This would go well with the roadster conversion idea.
My EVs: Mitsubishi Zero (2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV and 2014 Zero S 11.4 Motorcycle)

GdB
Posts: 146
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:06 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:04 am

A Lotus 78 would be a nice body design guide. :lol:

Image
My EVs: Mitsubishi Zero (2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV and 2014 Zero S 11.4 Motorcycle)

siai47
Posts: 363
Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 5:54 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Sun Jan 18, 2015 5:08 pm

If you think you are going to "hack" a I-MiEV and make something drivable out of it, I wish you luck. Everything is so intergrated in the electronics that the whole will not operate unless the sum of the original parts are in place and working. Believe me, I have spent many hours pondering this question. Getting a "ready" light on the dash is the holy grail. Before I tore apart my wrecked I-MiEV I tried to get it to run. After being unable to make any progress I dragged it down to the Mitsubishi dealer and cleared around 40 various codes with the MUT III but still had a couple that prevented the "ready" light. One was the airbag controller which (although no bags or tensioners were deployed) had experienced excessive "G" loads. This cannot be reset and need to be replaced $$$. It can also be repaired by 3rd party shops but it's still around a hundred bucks. Then there were all the sensors. Tire pressure, anti lock, brake vacuum, vacuum pump, etc.---you get the picture. The battery charger and DC-DC converter are intergrated so there is no charging (12 volt or High voltage). It was reassuring that most of the instrument panel warning lights worked as most were on. At least the navigation system worked as it did show where the car was when it crashed until it got a GPS signal. The biggest problem of making anything useful out of the I-MiEV is the lack of any information on how the systems are controlled through the can buss system. There is a computer under the dash that works like a body control module in domestic cars. This in turn controls the main EV computer and the battery management unit located under the rear seat. These computers control the battery charger and inverter for the electric motor. Best case would be to find a damaged car that still drove and transplant 100% of the systems into whatever kind of car you wanted to install it in. The next best thing is to try to find a compatible inverter for the main drive motor as I don't believe there is any way to operate it without the rest of the components. We know the motor is out of a forklift---so somewhere out there is a inverter that should operate it. The final problem is the battery balancing circuit in the battery modules. There is zero information on how that works. I do know that it has balancers that operate via a can buss (and a backup K-Line) signal from the BMU that is independent from the main vehicle can buss. What can buss signal initiates the balancing operation and how to prevent from starting during charging at levels above .5 amps is unknown to me. Without balancers, the batteries themselves are useless. So if someone figures this out, post it here as I have a load of parts that could be put to good use. If I can find a suitable inverter for the motor there is going to be a really dangerous golf cart out there :lol: !

Palm35
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:49 am
Location: Rennes, France

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Thu Jan 22, 2015 9:17 am

Hello,
I don't remember if I told you about this electric range extender.
http://eauto.si/en/electric-range-extender/
and too here
http://eauto.si/en/new-projects/ (project 2 below)

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